Coongie Lakes to Birdsville

Coongie Lakes is truly beautiful. One of our mornings there we had a spectacular sunrise.

We had to backtrack over the rugged corrugations to return to Innamincka and take the Walker's Crossing Track, link up with the Birdsville Track and make our way to the famous little town in the corner of Queensland. On our way we stopped at King's site where King was found after following the local aborigines around for a few weeks. He was very lucky to have been so well cared for by them but unfortunately he was always plagued by ill health after this expedition and died when he was only 33. We had to decide whether to have a 'dry camp' for the night i.e. no water nearby so only minimal washing and showering, or head for Birsdville. We decided on the latter though we broke the golden rule of camping and didn't get in till after 9pm. We are usually settled by 3 or at the latest 4 so we can enjoy the aspect and set up in the light. We did see a brilliant sunset along the way and because the horizon is visible all round with no hills it is truly a memorable sight.

It is a little hard to make out but this is Sturt's Stony Desert and the ground is covered in small red rocks for as far as you can see.These photos were take all at the same time with me just moving the camera to the next part of the sky.

We are now camped on the Diamantina River and unless you were told you wouldn't know it was a caravan park from the first photos you see. We can have open fires and enjoy all the benefits of camping with a shower, laundry and kitchen about 150m away. We will leave for the Desert tomorrow and will be out of range for about a week. We hope to get to Alice Springs next weekend.

Cullyamurra, Innaminka surrounds and onto Coongie Lakes

Reluctantly we packed up and left only footprints and memories at Cullyamurra but promising to return with canoe next time. Not far down the same track back to the highway was Burke's grave site. It is a poignant place and we sat on the seat and tried to recall all the feelings as he lay dying with King by his side. While we were here we got some bush tucker that they had used - NOT the Nardoo seeds - and cooked some of the beans up later - they were delicious.

The bean tree

We headed for Innaminka - we were in South Australia now. It is a tiny place - not much more than a pub, a store and a rangers station. We did go to the very desolate cemetry there and read some of the sad epitaphs. The town dump provided another highlight where crows and dingoes reign supreme.

We bought our desert pass here - $150 for the privilige of sand dunes across the Simpson - and headed north over 100 km of some very rough and corrugated road to Coongie Lakes National Park. We arrived early afternoon and picked a spot on Cooper Creek which flows into the lake. The main Lake is huge and was a short 200m walk across a sand dune to have a spectacular view of it. The bird life again was amazing. We caught up with some serious bird watchers here - twitchers - and they had documented 45 varieties in their 2 day stay. We saw brolgas, pelicans, black swans, hosts of of white cockatoos and sulphur crested ones also and galahs as well as a myriad of other smaller birds whose names and calls are a part of our lives that we would love to know more about. We met a lovely couple there who shared some wine and stories of their great trip down the Murray in sea kayaks a few years ago. There are not many words to say about this beautiful place - I will let the pics tell the story.

This is just a small sample of the flora and fauna footprints in the area - more next post and Kerry can take over here.

Thargomindah to Cullyamurra Waterhole

Hi dear Bloggers a week out of range and much to catch up on. We have been staying mostly at National Parks and they are so nice it's hard not to stay a while. We looked around Thargo for an hour or so before we headed off. They have some old buildings but the best of these is this historic house. It used to be owned by one of the cattle barons in the early days and has been lovingly restored with great wide wooden floors and the original fireplaces back to back in kitchen and livìng room. It also had an interesting back yard - see for yourself.

There have been some incredible rigs out here that people are travelling in and this one was one or the ritzyest we've seen. The car was a V8 and the whole thing wouldnt quite fit into the space at the caravan park!!! Not the ones above the one just below. Lol

T

We noticed these swallows nests on one of the houses. They had nearly taken over.

Once on the road we headed west again and one of our main reasons for being in this area was to see the Dig Tree. It's in an isolated spot near Innaminka. The area is very remote but right on Cooper Creek. The afternoon we were there it was bitterly cold and I took a video where you can hear the wind howling. The absolute misery of the men when they realised the support party had left 9 hours earlier after waiting 4 months for Burke, Wills, King and Grey must have been enormous. Their return meant that they were left there with only minimal food. Grey had perished earlier but the remaining 3 were very weak and Burke was a poor leader and wouldn't acknowledge the skills of the local aborigines who were really quite friendly. Of course Burke and Wills perished but I was not aware that is was mainly because of a Vitamin B deficiency - they were cooking Nardoo Cakes just like they had seen the aborigines do but had not realised they had to rinse the Nardoo seeds as they ground them to get rid of a noxious chemical. This chèmical didn't allow their bodies to convert Vitamin B as it should. They died in an area rich with fresh water and food that the aborigines have survived in tens of thousands of years. King on the other hand was very canny and joined the aborigines and stayed alive until he was rescued by a search party about 6 weeks later. At the site there is also the Face Tree where an image of Burke was carved into a nearby tree last century.

After leaving this sad spot we headed off to look for a nice spot for the night. Kerry had remembered Cullyamurra Waterhole from last visit with his Dad so we headed there and found the best place. We stayed 3 nights and would still be there if there wasn't so much more to see. We were treated to a huge variety of birdlife, warm days but very cold nights (thank you Anna for my Fox gloves), lovely meals in the camp oven and much reading. sleeping, and an almost full moon to top it off. Kerry went on a huge bike ride to explore the area more - almost to the Innaminka Choke which is a rocky wall across the Cooper which he had canoed to with his Dad when they were here last. I have got an embroidery masterpiece which won't be finished before I am 90 but it is very relaxing to do a bit and listen to and watch for the different birds.

this trees - a River Gum - was 6m around. These trees and the Coolibah like the Dig Tree that abound in this area are around 250-300 years old

the ubiquitious crows

some nasty 3 pointed burrs

a lone pelican in the early morning